梅兰芳服饰展（三）

《杨门女将》

Female Generals of Yang Family

佘太君—梳老旦发髻。戴老旦帅盔，老旦帅盔是在老旦凤冠基础上加饰戟头、缨子而成。盔形圆锥体，似覆钟，顶端吞口处竖戟头和缨子，盔后缀绣龙“后兜”。饰绒球、珠子，有时在前额处加大额子。穿秋香色平金绣团龙老旦蟒，有蟒水。腰系丝绦，挂朝珠，下穿墨绿大折裙。这种人物造型比较庄重、沉稳。一般用于由老旦应工的高贵的老郡主、老诰命夫人。

She Taijun:

She Taijun appears in Laodan bob and Laodan marshal helmet, which is developed from Laodan Phoenix coronet with the halberd head and tassel added. Laodan is the role of women in Peking Opera. Marshal helmet, cone-formed like an inverted bell, has a halberd head with tassel erected at the mouth on top and a “back bag”, which is embroidered with dragon, hanging behind, decorated with velvety balls and beads. And sometimes a big “Ezi” is also added at the forehead. She also wears Laodan Twined-Python Robe of Autumn Fragrance color, which is embroidered by the flat golden embroidery method, standing upright in Python water, with a silk ribbon around the loin, beads and a greenish big ruffled skirt. This set of attire is used for the Laodan parts to reveal a solemn temperament or to show identities of old noble women who had been given glorious titles and gifts by the emperor.  

《红灯记》

The Legend of Red Lantern

李玉和—人物造型基本以写实为主。戴伪满时期铁路工帽，穿伪满时期铁路员工制服衣裤，围灰围巾。足蹬皮鞋。

Li Yuhe:

        The makeup and costume used for Li Yuhe is vivid and true to life. He appears in railroad workers’ cap and uniform of the Puppet Manchuria Regime with black scarf around the neck and also wears leather shoes.

李奶奶—戴老年妇女假发套，穿斜襟灰布袄，布裤子。腰系深灰兰围裙。布鞋。

Grandma Li:

        Grandma Li appears in wig for old-aged women, black cloth coat with inclined front and trousers with dark grayish blue-colored apron and cloth shoes.

李铁梅—梳黑色大辫子。穿红底白花大襟小袄，灰绿色棉布裤子，膝盖上有美化了的补丁。穿打补丁的布鞋。

Li Tiemei:

Li Tiemei wears her black hair in thick braids and appears in red short close-fitting jacket with white flowers and front which buttons on the right, green cotton-padded trousers spotted with embellished patches on the knees as well as cloth shoes with patches.    

鸠  山—光头。戴眼镜。留日式小黑胡子。穿日式家居款和服。脚蹬日式木屐。

Jiu Shan:

        Jiu Shan is baldheaded, wears glasses and has a black Japanese-style small beard. He also appears in Japanese-style casual kimono and clogs.

《望江亭》

The River View Pavilion

谭记儿—梳古装头，戴包头巾。穿大襟绣串边花袄、裤。袄外罩围裙，系飘带。外披蓑衣。蓑衣原是江南农家遮雨用物。用作戏曲服装后在质料上加以美化，用丝线编结成自由穗，层层覆盖，具有可漂动自如的特点，赋予人物形象以特殊的美感。穿彩鞋。

Tan Ji’er:

Tan Ji’er appears in Guzhuang Tou, a hairstyle in reference to the noble women appearing in ancient paintings with a handkerchief wrapped round her head. She wears colored trousers and jacket which is embroidered with brims and has front which buttons on the right, covered with apron with flowing ribbon around the loin and coir raincoat. Coir raincoat is originally used for farmers in south of the lower reaches of the Changjiang River to keep out rain, yet now becomes one of the costumes. The developed one adopts more graceful material and is decorated with layers of flowing free-style tassels made of silk thread, which gives people a sense of extraordinary beauty. She also wears colored shoes. 

《除三害》

Driving Away Three Monsters

周  处—戴硬花罗帽。内穿花箭衣，系大带。穿花脸花褶，专用于具有粗犷豪放性格的这一类人物。一般绣绒绣大枝子角花，或平金散点式大流云。花褶敞穿。

Zhou Chu:

Zhou Chu wears Yinghualuo cap, which is firm, of satin material and embroidered with flowers. He also appears in colored arrow attire with broad band around the loin and Huazhe, which is used for the Jing parts to represent the unconstrained and bold characters. Huazhe is generally unbuttoned and embroidered with big branched flowers or spotted flat golden big flowing clouds.

《三岔口》

The Three-Fork Road Inn

任堂惠—戴软花罗帽，前面插茨菰叶。穿花抱衣。缎料制成，彩绣小团花纹样，斜襟大领，紧袖口，下摆缀打褶异色绸边两层，称为走水。下穿抱裤。是短打武生所饰绿林英雄、义士侠客的身份装。足穿花薄底鞋。

Ren Tanghui:

        Ren Tanghui wears Ruanhualuo cap, which is soft, embroidered with flowers and inserted with arrowhead leaves and Hua-Bao-Yi, which is of satin material and adopts line pattern of small flowers, with lean front, wide open collar, tight cuffs and two layers of various colored silk ribbons called “wavy water”, and Baoku, or panty girdle. This set of attire is worn by “Wusheng” to represent the identities of robin hoods, and chivalrous and knightly people.  He also wears colored shoes with thin soles.

刘利华—穿花侉衣。侉衣性质为短式戎服，是短打武生、武丑所饰绿林英雄、义士侠客的身份装。有花、素之分。花侉衣周身彩绣散点式飞禽纹样，一般用燕、蝶等图案来象征人物身躯矫健，具有飞檐走壁之轻功，多用于由武丑所饰的性格诙谐幽默的绿林英雄。

Liu Lihua:

         Liu Lihua wears Hua-Kua-Yi, which is a short military attire worn by “Wusheng”、 “Wuchou”to represent the identities of robin hoods, and chivalrous and knightly people. There is Hua-Kua-Yi, or Kua-yi of color embroidery and Su-Kua-Yi, namely Kua-Yi of no pattern of embroidery. The former is dotted with the line pattern of aerial birds, mostly swallow and butterfly and is generally used for robin hoods performed by “Wuchou” parts to show their manual dexterity, superb Kung fu of leaping onto roofs and vaulting over wall as well as humorous character.

《群英会》

A Meeting of Heroes

曹  操--戴黑相雕。穿红盘龙蟒，蟒上龙纹最生动、很有气势。其姿态，一般为龙头朝下，龙尾向上，气势磅礴。龙口喷吐海水，更增添生动之感。全身平金绣，服色为红色，象征人物位高权重，是帝王将相等高贵身份的人物所用的礼服。面料为大缎。内穿红色彩裤，足登青厚底。

Caocao:

Caocao appears in black Xiangdiao, or cap and red python robe of lively and vigorous dragon which spits sea water from the mouth with head over heels and tail upward. The set of attire he wears adopts red-colored flat golden embroidery made of satin, which is worn by emperors, ministers and generals to show the noble identities. He also wears red pants and green shoes with thick soles.    

《穆桂英挂帅》

Mu Guiying Taking Command

穆桂英—梳大头。带点翠头面。穿女团花帔（团花帔为已婚之青年妇女使用）。图案布局平稳、纹样严谨，以衬托人物端庄的仪态。内穿衬褶子。下穿彩绣圈金马面裙。足穿彩鞋。

Mu Guiying:

Shu Datou means tying hair into a vertically elliptic form at back of the head, such as is used on Mu Guiying. She appears in Dian-Cui-Tou-Mian, a kind of hair dress for women made of jade and Nv-Tuan-Hua-Pei, a short cape of colorful embroidery with regular and precise pattern of lines used for married young women to reveal a dignified bearing. She also wears undergarment with pleats, skirt with color embroidery of golden horse-face and colored shoes.  

《杜鹃山》

Cuckoo Mountain

柯  湘--人物造型基本以写实为主。上穿紫格斜襟棉布袄，围白汗巾，腰系皮带，下穿蓝布裤。足穿草鞋。

Ke Xiang:

The makeup and costume used for Ke Xiang is vivid and true to life. He appears in wadded jacket with purple-colored tartan and inclined front, white washcloth around the neck, waistband, blue-colored cloth trousers and straw sandals.